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Saturday, November 30, 2013

THE FASHION INDUSTRY vs INTERNET PIRACY




The GLOBAL BLACK MARKET 

“For the 2012 Presidential Inauguration Ball,
 Design by....Jason Wu

First Lady Michelle Obama wore a stunning ivory-colored one-shoulder chiffon gown adorned with Swarovski crystals.  An emerging young gown designer, Jason Wu, created the dress as a one-of-a kind piece for Mrs. Obama with no intention of reproducing versions of it for sale.  Nonetheless, in a matter of days, fast-fashion retailers were selling copies of the dress online.  This phenomenon is known as design piracy or knocking off and is standard operating procedure for many [companies] both large and small.” (Tan, 2013, pg. 893-894)
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     The raft of internet piracy has wreaked havoc on virtually every major industrial sector.  The world of U.S. fashion designs is no exception to the rule.  In recent years, selling counterfeit goods on the internet has become Big Business.  Havocscope, a reliable web portal for reporting global black market issues,  list the United States as number one in the counterfeiting  of consumer goods which generates 625.63 billion dollars annually http://www.havocscope.com/.  

     This number encompasses a 24 billion dollar loss to the clothing and shoe industry. Each of the industries rank in the top 26 - clothes (#8) and shoes (#9) - respectfully in forfeiture to the counterfeit market.  The 26 billion dollar revenue from on-line shopping represent approximately 13% of the US domestic gross product (DGP).  Nearly 72% of women use the internet as an outlet for shopping making online shopping the most popular cross-shopping category.  According to Forrester Research, the US online retail industry will be valued at $279 billion dollars by 2015. 

     While fashion designers in other countries are extended trade mark, copy right and intellectual property right protections equivalent to their counterparts in non-apparel sectors, such legal protection elude fashion designers in the US. Worldwide, counterfeiting is a multi-billion dollar industry where  the legal consequences and punishment for getting caught are relatively marginal. Although, counterfeiting is classified as illegal in the U.S., deliberately copying another's design know as design piracy is an unregulated practice in the country. Ethically, it can be viewed as morally corruptible to intentionally copy a product produced from another person's intellect and hard work. Yet the customary habit of knock off - replicating an original design - is a global phenomenon with little legal recourse for US designers.   

Much like foreign designers, US designers take measures to authenticate their products.  For example:  Ugg shoes come with reflective stickers on shoeboxes; special colors; position of letters; and certificated tags are all approaches to combat design piracy.   This concept is called trade dress.  Yet, buyers must be aware.  Authenticated measures are fabricated as well which makes it difficult for buyers to know if it’s the real McCoy or a fake.  

CONSUMER ALERT
American Designer Marc Jacobs' Boots
http://www.marcjacobs.com/

Which One is FAKE?  Which One is REAL


Answer:  First picture is an authentic design.  What makes it authentic?  

According to ConsumerReports.com, buyers should do the following when mislead to purchasing counterfeit goods.  http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/06/how-to-spot-counterfeits/index.htm

How to spot counterfeits

Inspect deals on designer goods before you buy

Consumer Reports Money Adviser: June 2012
Say you spend thousands on a Rolex watch, then discover later on that it’s counterfeit. Here’s what you can do.

Don’t resell it. Even if you disclose that it’s counterfeit, you could expose yourself to criminal prosecution.

Demand satisfaction. You’re legally entitled to a legitimate version or a refund. It doesn’t matter what the seller’s return policy is, says Dean Richard Alderman, director of the Center for Consumer Law at the University of Houston Law Center. You’re also covered if you buy merchandise that the seller failed to disclose was gray market, meaning a genuine product sold through unauthorized channels.

Do a charge-back. If you used a credit card, request a charge-back from the card issuer. File it as a billing error, not as a problem with product quality, which might limit your rights. If you’ve used an escrow service or a buyer protection program, be sure to notify it within the allowed time period.

Contact the authorities. File a complaint with your state consumer officials. You can find a list at USA.gov. Selling fake items might violate state statutes on unfair trade practices and federal criminal laws barring the trafficking of counterfeit products. For major fraud, contact your local law enforcement.

File a lawsuit. At a minimum, you’re entitled to a full refund. If the seller engaged in fraud and you proceed under a state’s unfair-trade-practice law, you might be entitled to your attorney’s fees and triple damages.

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     Unfortunately, with limited legal protection, US designers are particularly vulnerable given the US is the world's largest consumer nation.  Since the emergence of the internet the online retail industry has rapidly grown along with the nemesis - design piracy.  While online retailers have a responsibility to regulate and monitor counterfeit merchandise fraud, not all online retailers are respectable, replicable business with a personal and monetary investment to maintain longevity, image and/or its stockholders.  Even with legal protections, and piracy protocols fashion designers and notable online retailers are susceptible to design piracy.  

eBay Loses Court Case To Louis Vuitton

Paris court rules against eBay

By  · February 11, 2010 · Posted in the Business Channe


The Paris District Court ruled today that eBay is liable for harming the reputation of luxury goods maker Louis Vuitton through its use of trademarks, company name and domain name.
The Paris court has ordered eBay to stop using keywords which harm the reputation of the Louis Vuitton brand to promote its sites and will impose penalties of  $1,372 (1,000 euros) for future violations.
"Louis Vuitton welcomes this decision, which confirms established case law that aims to protect the consumer from the illicit use of company trademarks," said Nathalie Moull-Berteaux, Global Intellectual Property Director of Louis Vuitton.
The court also ordered eBay to pay $274,407 (200,000 euros) in damages to Louis Vuitton. eBay has also been ordered to pay $41,161 (30,000 euros) to reimburse the legal costs of Luis Vuitton.

"This case is about the use of Adwords to direct buyers’ listings for authentic goods from eBay sellers," said Yohan Ruso, director general of eBay France.
"This issue is being used by certain Rights Owners as an excuse to retain total control of what people can buy, where they can buy it from, and how much they have to pay. This is why 750,000 Europeans signed a petition to the European Parliament last year, protesting barriers to Internet trade."



     Despite efforts by renowned fashion designers and industry lobbyists including the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the US Congress has not enacted legislation to protect fashion designers.  Irrespective of this, the US fashion industry continues to rally for protection against design piracy.  Currently, Congress is considering whether to afford copy right protection to fashion designers in the form of the Design Piracy Prohibition Act (DPPA).  If the DPPA is passed, it would provide copyright protections to fashion designers for a period of three years (Tan, 2013).  
     However, not everyone thinks this is a good idea.  Opponents of DPPA say the trade dress concept is enough for designers to protect their work.  On the other hand, the fashion industry advocate that trade dress is no match to confronting the ramped, widespread practice of design piracy.  In the meantime, the US fashion designers await the ruling by Congress.  

     As long as the internet exit, the online retail market will be in business.  Design piracy isn't going anywhere.  Just how do designers and consumers safeguard against design piracy is a matter of epic proportions to resolve.  The genie is out of the bag and he/she is running wild.  



































































































































































































4 comments:

  1. Interesting post covering an area that I had little familiarity with.....nice job. It makes me wonder how this will evolve (get worse) as you begin to factor in 3-D printing? The Today show recently demonstrated an iPhone app that captured a 3 dimensional specs of an iPhone case, which could then be printed out on a 3-D printer.

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  2. I liked your topic this week as it focuses on trademarks, copyrights and intellectual theft of designs and products. One comment you made caught my attention: when you mention how difficult it is to prosecute offenders and how to go about returning a counterfeit item. Rather than telling your credit card company that the product was counterfeit or that there was a problem with the item, it seems to be better to say it was a “billing error”. I am not attempting to preach from a pulpit however it does seem strange that it is better to ‘tell a lie’ to your credit card company than to tell them the truth. I am in no way suggesting you are the one recommending this as I’m sure this recommendation came from your research but it just strikes me odd that it is better to be untruthful about the charge back. Could it be possible that people create knock-offs because there is no real penalty that is greater than the one our system creates for their consumers? Credit card companies almost ‘make’ us become untruthful in order to cover our perceived rights.

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    1. I found the consumer report recommendation for reporting counterfeit goods interesting as well. According to my research, it is the buyers responsibility to ensure that merchandise is legitimate. That sounds unfair, but the research warns buyers to be informed. So, apparently it's better to state a false hood to your credit card holder than to tell the tell.

      Once again, our behaviors reflect societal norms. The idea that it's better to lie in some cases than to tell the truth. Just how do we teach contradicting values to our children? That's what bothers me.

      UNT_Denise

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  3. Hi Denise,
    I like how you have set up your blog site! great job! Do you think all creative work whether it is a web site, a computer, a software or fashion design should be protected against copying? Perhaps designers can provide licensing fees so that more people can enjoy their designs and the originators can get the rewards they deserve. Maybe the designers should get their queues from Apple and their smart phone. Apple wants everyone to have an original copy of their product. Can you imagine if only the first lady was allowed to have an iPhone!
    You have presented a great topic, it can be controversial and it can generate great discussions.
    Thank you for sharing your views and research results. Sometimes copy righted materials are not in line with Jesuit philosophy. In United States, restaurants are not allowed to sing the birthday song because it is copy protected. In a different culture, a great composer has composed a birthday song and he wants everyone to enjoy singing it without expecting anything.
    Great post and a very creative blog site.
    Thanks,
    Mo

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